Motion waviness on sunlit objects

TomG wrote on 6/30/2013, 6:51 PM
I am using a prosumer Panasonic camera and recently took a video of the SF skyline. I notice that in the broad daylight I have a sever jitter (wave) in the sunlighted reflected areas such as glass and metal on buildings or even metal tall streetlamps.

Is there a filter I could employ to reduce this waviness?

Thanks in advance,

TomG

Comments

musicvid10 wrote on 6/30/2013, 10:03 PM
This is in the camera footage?
Why don't you upload an original camera clip showing this effect, and others here will take a look.

If it's true refractive interference, the answer is no, there is probably nothing you can do about it.
You could try a set of polarizing filters over the lens to take out some of the reflection.
johnmeyer wrote on 6/30/2013, 10:44 PM
It is impossible to provide advice without a clip, but I wonder if perhaps it is some sort of "rolling shutter" artifact?
Grazie wrote on 6/30/2013, 11:10 PM
If I had the opportunity to "reshoot", I would take it, in a heart beat. Then, try another time of day, Sun angles and whatnot, and/or try a pola, and that's assuming you have the option to attach one. Find a cardboard/cellotape way to sandwich the Pola Glass Gaffer Tape isn't recommended - oh yes, it's been done before now.

Or, there is another way - Would it be possible to turn it into a creative opportunity?

BTW, is it really that bad? Really? The reflects are a reasonable account of what happened. It's a judgement call.

Grazie



TomG wrote on 7/1/2013, 6:10 AM
It's been a while and I can't remember how to create a link or upload a file to the forum (even though I searched using keywords "upload forum"). I know this has been documented somewhere so if anyone remembers where and points me in that direction, I would be glad to upload it.

The input clip is in .m2ts (or mpg-2) and looks fine via media player. That file is put into VPROv10. I render it via NTSC. When I view this on the media player, that's when I see the very distinct waviness in the shiny objects such as sunlit buildings against the blue sky while panning.

TomG
rs170a wrote on 7/1/2013, 6:31 AM
TomG, the easiest thing to do is to upload the file to a site such as Dropbox (2 GB. of space and it's free) and then share the link with us. If you don't have Dropbox, use the link below and we both get an extra 500 MB. of storage.
http://db.tt/rYE74u2

Mike
musicvid10 wrote on 7/1/2013, 8:05 AM
"

In your Project Properties:

See if that clears up your problem.

As far as uploading media files; Dropbox, Mediafire, Google Drive are all good, but not Youtube.
johnmeyer wrote on 7/1/2013, 10:22 AM
Uploading is the easiest thing in the world these days. Musicvid's list is excellent, and I'll add YouSendIt to that list. If you don't use any of these services, I'd recommend Mediafire and Dropbox as the two you should try first.

As for your problem, if you only see it after a render, than in addition to providing a clip, you also need to give us a snapshot of the Video tab on your Render As dialog and also a snapshot of the Project Properties (or just upload the VEG file). It could be that you have set something wrong in one of those dialogs, in which case your renders may have other problems beyond those you see at the moment.

Uploading the project VEG would be useful because, even without the media files, we can check for track and event settings problems.
musicvid10 wrote on 7/1/2013, 11:35 AM
I subcontract for a large educational corp., and they recently switched our report uploads from Dropbox to Google Drive.

The biggest advantage of Google Drive is 15GB free storage.

I'll give YouSendIt a look per your suggestion.

[EDIT] This is just a test of link sharing using Google Drive:
http://docs.google.com/file/d/0B-mik7_akeTkRWtpeU5aR0ZaQXM/edit?usp=sharing
johnmeyer wrote on 7/1/2013, 4:29 PM
I'll give YouSendIt a look per your suggestion.Don't bother. I was just trying to provide some additional solutions in case the OP had trouble signing up or using one of the other suggestions. YouSendIt was one of the first free ftp sites I used many years ago, but I think all of the others are probably better and have fewer restrictions. Actually, based on your description of Google Drive, I think I'll try that one. 15 GB of FREE storage sounds absolutely amazing. How do they make money on that? Between the disk drive, facility overhead, and energy cost, that has to cost them at least one or two dollars a year.
musicvid10 wrote on 7/1/2013, 6:34 PM
John,
I think you actually signed up for Google Drive when we were handing off media files a while back. Anyway I approved a share request in your name.

Thing about Google these days, they want us to group all our Gmail, Youtube, Picassa, Google Drive, Groups, Shopping, Adsense, Feedburner, Google Earth, as well as all our Mobile Aps and Search activity all under one email. That way they know far more than the N-S-A, and ad targeting and thus freeflowing revenue becomes a snap.
;?)

In the meantime, I don't buy anything, and continue to use their free services unashamedly, at the price of a little less personal privacy.

Seth wrote on 7/1/2013, 6:58 PM
This sounds a lot like an interlacing artifact.

Were you shooting interlaced? If so, what are your timeline properties? Are you applying Vegas' timeline deinterlacing, or processing it some other way?
TomG wrote on 7/2/2013, 7:54 AM
I have not tried Dropbox but will use this.

Now, how do I embed a link into my message for people to see it in this forum?
Can I cut/paste it or just type it in?

TomG
rs170a wrote on 7/2/2013, 8:08 AM
Check out the New Markup for Forum Posts sticky on the intro page of this forum for instructions.
Alternately, I like and use http://madison.thewikies.com/sonyforumpreview/ all the time.

Mike
musicvid10 wrote on 7/2/2013, 9:02 AM
It will be nice to look at your upload, but have you double checked the Project settings I listed above? Waviness will result from not having these set.



c3hammer wrote on 7/2/2013, 2:15 PM
You don't need to upload the file. It's simply heat waves. Your brain filters them out while the camera can't.

I do a ton of long range wildlife video and with a 600mm lens and a crop in video mode to 3000mm equivalent. You can get massive heat waves that make it so you can hardly see the image.

A couple possibilities are to use a higher vantage point by getting the camera away from the radiating subjects. Another is to shoot when the heat is dissipating rather than increasing. Overcast cool days to clearing weather work best.

Here's a recent one with a 3000mm equivalent focal length at 3/4 of a mile away. The shots in the sun are only at 600 yards or so on a morning that was only 53 degrees with the ground heated from a week of 105 or so down in the valley.



Cheers,
Pete
TomG wrote on 7/3/2013, 6:18 AM
Thanks for the advice musicvid10 and I have tried this to no avail.
C3hammer, I don't think this is heat waves. I'm sure it's something basic but I just don't know how to filter it (if it is even possible).

See the clip below:


https://www.dropbox.com/s/05f5s5zrk3kq7og/2013%20SF.mpg

TomG
farss wrote on 7/3/2013, 8:02 AM
That looks to me like aliasing.
Also your image quality is not helped by putting 16:9 into a 4:3 frame.

I think before we can offer any real help we're going to need a sample of the source footage otherwise we'll be making a lot of guesses.

Bob.
larry-peter wrote on 7/3/2013, 9:07 AM
I don't have time at the moment to download and view through my Vegas system, but viewing from Dropbox I see aliasing, bloom on some of the highlights and the mismatch between screen refresh and frame rate makes it appear that the highlights are "waving." The whole new frame is actually offset during the screen refresh but my eyes are distracted from the darker areas by the highlights. There may be totally different issues apparent when viewing in Vegas, but that's what I see here.

musicvid10 wrote on 7/3/2013, 9:52 AM
Is that upload an original camera clip as we requested?
johnmeyer wrote on 7/3/2013, 11:54 AM
Let me summarize some of the advice already given into the form of recommendations of what you should do in order to create a better MPEG-2 file to be used for the creation of a standard definition DVD.

1. Use the "Match Media Settings" button in the Project Properties dialog to make certain that the project properties match your source media. While in that dialog, uncheck the setting that attempts to automatically adjust settings. Also, since you are dealing with interlaced video, make sure that the "Deinterlace Method" in the project properties is set to either blend or interpolate (do NOT set it to "none"). I would choose "interpolate."

2. Do not make any changes to either the media or the event dialogs. Leave resample on "smart" and don't make any changes to the "media" tab in either the event or media Properties dialogs.

3. In the MPEG-2 "Render As" dialog, make sure to choose the "DVD Architect NTSC Widescreen video stream" preset. Check twice to make sure this is the one you select, because there are several that have similar names. Also, make certain that this is set to Widescreen because, as Bob ("farss") already pointed out, you are losing a lot of resolution by rendering a widescreen project inside of a 4:3 MPEG-2 container. It is obvious that this is what you did because there are black bars on top and bottom in the actual video itself. Thus, you have effectively cut your resolution almost in half. This will accentuate any aliasing problems, and will make your video far less sharp.

Not using "Widescreen" is the biggest, most obvious problem with what you have done.

4. While still in the MPEG-2 "Render As" dialog, change the "Average (bps)" bitrate to whatever is needed to make your video fit. If your video is less than 75 minutes, use 7,500,000. Also, if the field order is set to "interlaced (bottom field first), change that to "interlaced (top field first)." In theory, this shouldn't matter, but several of us found problems with some versions of Vegas when the MPEG-2 render field order is different than the source media. There is a long thread about this somewhere, but I don't have time to find it.

5. Remove any sharpening effects you may have applied to the project, media, track, or events. Sharpening will make the staircasing that you see on those buildings look far, far worse than they would be without the effect. If you feel you are losing too much sharpness when going from your HD source to the SD DVD, there are other ways to improve that besides using a sharpening fX.

Finally, as already suggested, if you can upload your VEG file and also a short clip from the source, we can give you even more exact instructions and probably solve your problem almost completely.
TomG wrote on 7/5/2013, 6:21 AM
Thanks, everyone

And especially to Johnmeyer who took the time to summarize all the advice that was given. I'll work on this over the weekend.

For some reason I did overlook the "DVD Architect NTSC Widescreen video stream" setting. In the past I never used this setting but I will certainly check off to make sure I hit all the knowledgeable suggestions.

At this point my veg file only contains one scene with the settings. If all the settings suggested still do not work, I'll post the veg file and original clip next week.

I appreciate all the great advice.

TomG