How to mimici audio from a cheap TV?

musman wrote on 9/3/2004, 5:56 AM
I tried posting this in the Sound Forge forum, but couldn't get a response.
I've been working on a short that has a ton of audio that's supposed to be coming from an old cheap tv. One of the first things I tried was the Cheap TV preset in Sound Forge's Chorus. I found it strange to have something like that in Chorus, and when I previewed it it did sound weird. Lots of echo type stuff and not what I was after at all.
In the meantime I've come up with a decent formula of iZotope's Vinyl (set to 1950 and stereo), phone line effect, and ExpressFX Reverb (set to 'small night club'- 'live ambiance'). It's okay, but I'd like something a bit better.
Can anyone suggest a better formula and just for curiosity's sake explain what purpose the Cheap TV Chorus preset is supposed to serve?
Thanks for any help!

Comments

farss wrote on 9/3/2004, 6:11 AM
Really simple solution, pick up an old TV from the junk heap and attack with soldering iron! Stick a decent mike nearby and record it back. I hear it works well for all sorts of things like phone conversations, two way radios etc.
The audio equivalent of a 'practical' stunt!

Bob.
Jessariah67 wrote on 9/3/2004, 7:57 AM
...or you could pick up one of those $20 B/W from Radio Shack or Best Buy. Telephone EQ presets work well for me, but what you are probably "missing" is the ambience of the TV body itself, which you could get doing what Bob suggests.

I wonder if you could create an AM impulse for something like that?
farss wrote on 9/3/2004, 8:14 AM
You could try some serious Eq, then add some distortion (not clipping) at the bottom end and some resonance filters to add a bit of a hollow wood or plastic box sound to it. But then you've got to place the thing in the sound field.
Yes, you could use AM for that, trick is to get a sample for AM to work with. Trick I think SPOT mentioned (or was it in Jay Rose's book), call for silence on the set, record the clapper near the sound source for AM sample and then 60 seconds of ambience. If you've just got the dry sound of the TV you still need the room ambience and the placement of your tweaked sound to take care of.
That's why my not so flippant suggestion before.
Of course doing it in post does give you more control.

Bob.
michael_morlan wrote on 9/3/2004, 9:14 AM
I just produced a voice-over for a 40's-style movie newsreel.

I've posted a .zip of the voice-over .mp3 and .veg that performed the processing.

http://michael-morlan.net/projects/vegas/vegas_really_cheap_speaker.zip

I used a Resonant Filter followed by a Track Compressor for the effect. You will find this chain in the Master Bus FX channel.

A note about the resonant filter effect. Some of the settings are quite easily changed when the mouse passes over them WITHOUT EVEN PRESSING THE MOUSE BUTTON. Be sure that the radio buttons for Filter Type and Filter Order are as follows:

Filter Type: High Pass
Filter Order: Second

Enjoy.
B.Verlik wrote on 9/3/2004, 1:17 PM
These all sound too complicated to get the result you need. I say just use the graphic EQ and cut down all the frequencies below 500Hz and find that right frequency (somewhere between 900 and 5000 Hz) and boost (them / it) and this will do good enough. Maybe even combine the para-metric EQ to find that perfect high frequency to boost. I doubt anybody will analyze the background sound fx that much unless it really sounds off.
musman wrote on 9/4/2004, 12:26 AM
Thanks everyone for the ideas. I'm a little afraid to go the way of playing through a cheap TV as the movie will be playing in a festival and speakers there are often a bit suspect. I did record a little bit of audio that way and now I'm thinking I may use the spectrum analyser to compare what I've done to the raw version that clip to what we got when recording off the TV.
TheGr8Steve, I think what I've done so far is fairly similar. The phone line effect cuts things off at 800 Hz and extends for 2 octaves (of course I still don't know what an octave is, but that's for another time).
I tried your formula and made a paragraphic eg where I made a low shelf for 500 hz and a high shelf for 5000 hz. So everything outside of that range was rolled off to nothing. You're right, it does sound pretty good. Strangely, now when I apply the reverb I had been using, it makes no difference- even applying a lot more of it. I'll try a different setting altogether, but I do think your suggestion helps and I appreciate it.
B.Verlik wrote on 9/4/2004, 12:51 AM
Yay! By the way, each octave is either double the Hz or 1/2 the Hz. Double meaning higher in pitch and etc. (Or in musical terms, an octave is the same note (like 'C' or 'A' or whichever) but either higher or lower in frequency. High 'C' or Low 'C', the Hz is either doubled(higher) or halved(lower) for each octave. An 'A' 440Hz is fairly standard, the next 'A', higher in pitch would be 880Hz or if lower in pitch would be 220Hz. All would be called 'A' notes, but octaves apart.) Now you know.
musman wrote on 9/4/2004, 2:14 AM
Very cool! Thanks for the lesson! I've learned a lot from the sf dvd tutorial and book as well as Jay Rose's book, but somehow that little bit of info had not yet found it's way to me. Amazing how much you can get done playing with the controls without knowing exactly what they mean.
But that does help a lot. Figured it had to be something like that, but what was a mystery.